Querencia, writes author Enrique Lamadrid, is “the cartography of beloved lands and peoples, hearts in place.” He’s written a book, published this year by Abiquiu-based Casa Urraca Press: Hearts in Motion, Hearts in Place.
The sense of place is powerfully magnetic here in Abiquiu, where we arrived on Oct. 6 from Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado. We stopped in Durango en route to our Abiquiu home until Oct. 15, and visited the Durango Natural Foods Co-op, where this timely poster greets those seated and reading the restroom door:
We wondered if our Riana campground at Abiquiu Lake would be open, since the federal government shutdown Oct. 1. Yes! Our campground hosts Cyndy and Al Warnier advised us. Their positivity, and fearless tough love with entitled or overly complaining campers results in an ultimate camping experience where we feel safe and welcome. We reserve site #3, where we’re neighbors of Cyndy and Al’s. Their holding of gracious space creates a terrific neighborhood of interesting campers.
Originally meeting when they were young at their parents’ northern Wisconsin resorts, Cyndy’s experience as a retired military chaplain, and Al’s gentle demeanor and fix anything skills create a camping experience that is more than a vacation, it’s a way of life we’ve come to treasure. Bill and I will gladly make our yearly pilgrimage here as long as Cyndy, Al and their faithful dog Moose are hosting. They’re completing five years, and are applying for the next five.
We subscribe to Cyndy’s frequent emails which send faith-based uplifts and food for thought–she has about 3,000 subscribers now. In the Oct. 11th message she writes:
“Hello weekend readers. Just so you know, we did not close due to the government shut-down because you cannot shut-down the Army Corp of Engineers—if you did, and no one was there to take care of the dam—well one tiny blip and thousands of people could die. Let me put it this way: it’s great to work for the Corp because we are Department Of Defense!”
A group of folks in Abiquiu Oct. 11 stood around with signs, much like our faithful folks at home on Hwy 525 and Bayview Park and Ride. A terrific sign touts “Prevent Truth Decay!”
Think we love it here? You bet. It’s the kind people, the landscape and the creativity. Here is our first full day at camp:
We took care of business using the library’s internet and mailing birthday packages from the post office in Abiquiu the following day. We hugged Sharon Garcia, librarian at El Pueblo de Abiquiú Library & Cultural Center. Sharon’s friendly welcome makes us feel part of the real Abiquiu.
We took a drive to Chimayo and stopped in to eat at the über famous Rancho de Chimayó Restaurant. I’ve got their cookbook of the eatery founded in 1965. We arrived at 11, just as the restaurant was opening. Seated in the dining room, I ordered a couple of tacos and Bill ordered chicken enchiladas with pinto beans and red sauce. The food tasted good. We sat next to Joe Masunas, a Chicago artist who flew out to photograph the Albuquerque Balloon Festival. He was staying in Santa Fe and after lunch, drove up to Chimayo to gather sacred dirt from the Santuario de Chimayo for his mom back home. I said I’d post a photo of his. If you’re in Chicago, visit his gallery, featuring color design photography and image stitching. AI reports that image stitching is a: “…computer vision technique for combining multiple overlapping photographs into a single, wider, or higher-resolution composite image.”
Joe texted me photos taken on his phone that day. Here’s one:
Sadly, the lunch did not agree with my sensitive gut and within the hour the entire lunch was flushed away. I wondered about the food’s preparation when a giant tour bus pulled up, dispatching about 50 people who filled the restaurant. I imagine it’s impossible to make so many meals while taking care of folks like me whose tummy can’t digest any wheat products.
We visited the Santuario de Chimayo, a site where a miracle was said to have occurred, and a church was built at its location between 1813 and 1816. The story holds that “…the crucifix of the Lord of Esquipulas was found by penitent Don Bernardo De la Encarnacion Abeyta in 1810.” Afterward visitors claimed miraculous cures from physical, emotional and spiritual suffering. A hole in the floor marks the site of the crucifix location. It is adjacent to the church, and the hole contains brown dirt which visitors scoop and claim its healing properties. As I scooped my little bit to place in my tin, a man on crutches joined me. He struggled to the floor with shaking legs to scoop some of the dirt into a container. Thousands of photos are posted adjacent to the church, along with crutches.
A highlight of the day was our conversation with carver Felix Lopez. We met him at the Santuario’s museum displaying faith-based art. Felix taught German and Spanish for years at high school in Española. While he’s been carving Santos nearly 50 years, he told us teaching was 90% of his time and carving 10%. “I wanted to be a good teacher,” said Felix.
Later, he got into playing flamenco music. It is carving that is his passion, he said, and that’s where his time is spent now that he’s retired from teaching. When we met, he sat with an aspen log on which he was carving a lady Santos. Felix pointed to the 8-foot St. Francis, whose blue cloak folded as if it were fabric. He carved this St. Francis. There’s also a carving he made inside the church of Christ lying in his sepulcher. We felt the power of faith gazing at this devotional art. Catholics are often asked why they pray to statues. It’s not that. It’s the feeling of the Divine we feel when seeing art that calls out a deep connection with the heart. Visitors are asked not to photograph these works and we respect that request. Felix agreed to have his photo taken and asked that I send him the story. I will. We will not forget our time with him.
Thursday we drove to nearby Ghost Ranch, where we hiked for 3 1/2 hours and back to Kitchen Mesa, a wild unforgettable box canyon. While we did not reach the top of the mesa, due to the steep trail composed of loose rock, we nearly made it, which we were pretty stoked about. Artist Georgia O’Keefe first moved here in 1929, taking inspiration from the high desert light and multi-colored landscape.
As we entered Ghost Ranch we were greeted by this sign:
After signing in and paying $10 each at the visitor center, we drove to the trailhead for Kitchen Mesa, a 5-mile loop. Much of the walk is through a high meadow surrounded by unreal and stunning geology. Here’s a photo essay of our journey that left us exhilarated for the effort. Kudos to my Bedrock clogs which kept me sure footed on the sometimes steep and rocky trail.
What helped us make the final ascent? A fit couple descending said we could do it. We listened on our iPhones music of Aretha Franklin singing “Let It Be,” Bruce Springsteen’s “Rising,” and “This Little Light of Mine.” We made it not quite to the top, but close enough to feel good about the challenge.
Descending we used 100% of our focus on placing our feet so that loose rocks didn’t send us falling or flying off the trail. A flock of bluebirds came flying by calling. We felt they were our protectors. Our late friend Fred Bixby once carved driftwood walking sticks that he told us were imbued with sacred runes. We thanked the spirit of Fred for his gift of sticks, which helped us descend 18″ step downs along the trail. After safely making the descent, we picnicked under shade of the craggly arms of a juniper. The whole adventure took us 3 1/2 hours.
Back at our lovely Marion, we enjoy chatting with our neighbor Mary, a retired Farmington reservation teacher, who scored the primo camping site with views of Cerro Pedernal. Her dogs Fergus and Angus have shining eyes that reflect understanding of we silly humans. A full moon night was something to celebrate.
And finally, here’s a ray of hope in a candidate running for New Mexico’s governor. We believe she seeks to prevent “truth decay.”
That’s it for now. Next is our adventure with the Open Artist Studio tour and a broken windshield. Adios, pardners from Cactus Kate and Bajada Bill.
